After our quick morning at Versailles (read that post here), the afternoon belonged to the Iron Lady herself: the Eiffel Tower. Tin stayed behind at Versailles to enjoy a few moments to herself, so this afternoon was just Dimple and me. And lunch came first, because nobody, and I mean nobody, sightsees well on an empty stomach. Ask Dimple.
Some landmarks you’ve seen in so many pictures that meeting them in person feels like bumping into a celebrity. This was one of those. Except this celebrity is made of iron and doesn’t mind photos.
Lunch first: Il Angelo
First stop: lunch at Il Angelo, an Italian trattoria a short walk from the tower. We had truffle risotto and lasagna. Everything was good, and it came out fast, which makes it a great stop before the tower. Fed, happy and back on our feet in no time: a dad’s dream. Full review here: Il Angelo review
Getting closer
You spot the tower between the buildings long before you reach it. Every block it gets a little bigger, and every block we took another selfie. And yes, there was a tour bus selfie too. When you’re a dad, the selfie arm never gets a day off.
Quick history: a tower that was meant to go away
The tower was built by Gustave Eiffel’s company for the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris, which marked 100 years since the French Revolution. The idea came from two of his engineers, Maurice Koechlin and Émile Nouguier, with architect Stephen Sauvestre adding the big arches at the base.
Here’s the twist: it wasn’t meant to last. Eiffel only had a 20-year permit for the land, and the tower was supposed to come down after that. So he made it useful. He set up science experiments on it, and in the end its job as a giant radio antenna saved it. In 1910 his concession was extended by another 70 years, and the tower stayed. Not bad for a "temporary" building. Every dad knows a "temporary" fix can last forever.
Under the legs: look up!
Standing right under the tower is a whole different feeling. You look up into a giant web of iron lattice, and it just keeps going. My neck got a workout, again (Versailles ceilings, I’m looking at you). At this rate, I’m coming home from Paris with a neck like a weightlifter.
Fun fact: the tower isn’t really "brown". Turns out it has a fashion history. Its 20th paint campaign, started in 2019, brought back the yellow-brown Gustave Eiffel chose in 1907. And it’s painted mostly by hand, with brushes. Next time I grumble about painting a wall, someone please remind me of this.
The views
Then came security, and with it my moment of truth. Somewhere between Lucerne and Paris, I had completely forgotten about the blue Victorinox pocket knife in my bag. Of all the places to remember you’re carrying a knife, the Eiffel Tower security check is not the one you’d pick.
Security kept it at the entrance, and I went up the tower quietly saying goodbye to my new souvenir. When we came down, they handed it back. I may have held it a little tighter after that.
We got lucky: the tower’s official guide says security can’t store restricted items, so don’t count on the same.
Then up we went, riding the lift all the way to the second floor. My legs said thank you.
From the second floor, Paris spreads out like a map, the kind you actually want to read. We picked out the golden dome of Les Invalides, the long green Champ de Mars, the lone Montparnasse tower, and across the Seine, the Trocadéro. We pointed at everything like tour guides who’d never been hired.
Standing up there, with the whole city laid out below us, was one of those moments you just want to stretch out a little longer.
Dimple vs. the glass floor (Dimple won)
On the way up, we passed the first floor and its glass floor. You stand on glass and look straight down, a long way down. My stomach did a little flip just watching. Some people tiptoe. Dimple posed. Arms out, big smile, totally unbothered. Watching her out there, having the time of her life, was my favourite part of the afternoon.
Bite-size fact: the glass floor opened in 2014, when the first floor was redesigned, and it sits 57 metres above the ground.
Tips for visiting the Eiffel Tower
- Eat first, then go up. We had lunch at Il Angelo, a short walk away on avenue de la Bourdonnais, and it made the whole visit better. We went up full and in no rush, and we didn’t need to think about food again until we came back down.
- Book on the official site, toureiffel.paris. The official site says the best prices are there and at the tower’s own ticket desks, and timed e-tickets save time on site.
- Book your lift ticket early. Lift tickets go on sale further ahead than stair tickets, and the tower is busiest in summer, school holidays and public holidays.
- Be on time. Arrive at the time on your ticket, and allow 15-20 minutes for security.
- Bring ID. E-tickets are personal.
- Have your ticket as a PDF. Wallet apps aren’t accepted.
- Travel light, and leave the blades at the hotel. No large luggage, and there are no lockers or cloakrooms at the tower. The official guide says even a Swiss Army knife counts as a weapon and won’t be allowed in, and security can’t store restricted items for you. Anything that ends up in the bin can’t be recovered. Check the Visitor’s Practical Guide before you go.
- Prefer the stairs? Stair tickets must be booked in advance, the stairs go up to the second floor, and they take about 15-20 minutes per level.
- Check the hours on the official rates and opening times page before you go. They change through the year.
You might also like: Amorino Paris Review: Rose-Shaped Gelato, a Macaron on Top, and the Crêpes That Got Away.
Eiffel Tower FAQ
For the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris, marking 100 years since the French Revolution.
Yes. It was supposed to be taken down after 20 years. Its use as a radio antenna saved it, and in 1910 Eiffel’s concession was extended by another 70 years.
On the first floor, 57 metres above the ground.
We took the lift up to the second floor. The views of Les Invalides, the Champ de Mars and the Trocadéro were worth it.
Yes, up to the second floor, but stair tickets must be booked in advance. We took the lift.
On the official site, toureiffel.paris, or at the tower’s ticket desks.